Acquiring a leather suit is not a cheap action, always better to inform yourself before. Topstitching, a decorative stitching on garments, is a highly desirable detail on leather jackets. It’s usually done along the edges of seams and pockets, and gives the jacket more visual punch. Think of it like bolding text. High end jackets will specifically use a thick thread by German company Güttermann. Designers will cut cost by using regular, thin thread and/or limiting the amount of top stitching on a garment, sometimes taking it out all together.

As a designer of leather jackets, I’ll be blunt: it’s tough to find a good, NEW, leather jacket for under $500. When it comes to price and quality, here’s what I usually say: A higher price tag is often a good indicator of better quality. Yes, you can get a $150 jacket at Asos that looks like that $4,000+ Saint Laurent jacket, but I assure you this is like comparing gas station sushi and to an omakase at Michelin Star Jiros. How clothes feel on is even more important than how they look.

Few items of menswear come packaged with as much attitude, heritage or unfiltered masculinity as a leather jacket. Synonymous with punks and pilots, motorcycles and Marlon Brando, the leather jacket is high-testosterone menswear, but it’s also a surprisingly versatile classic. In short, no well-edited wardrobe is complete without one.

Adapted from the jackets fencers wear, zippers are placed extremely asymmetrically (and sometimes feature a strong S curve design). This style is generally favored by higher-end avant garde labels, like Rick Owens, Carol Christian Poell and Julius. There are fewer factories in the United States than there were 20 years ago, and even fewer of those specialize in leather. That means that a lot of jackets, from the less expensive to high end, are often made in the same factories.

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Which type of leather you opt for depends on what you want from the jacket. If after something buttery soft, prioritise calfskin or lambskin, but bear in mind that it may not be as durable as a thick biker-type hide. For the very best quality (and steepest prices) you’ll need to look for ‘full grain’ leather jackets. These use the best quality hides and, due to its thickness, are rather stiff at first. They will take some breaking in, just like a good pair of Derby shoes, but you’ll be rewarded with a natural patina and a jacket that is unique to you. If your budget is limited, ‘top grain’ leathers are more affordable. These have had the natural grain sanded off and been stamped to give the leather an even look. Cheaper still, you can get great leather alternatives such as polyurethane, which will also appeal to those who want the look, but want to avoid using animal skins.

A leather jacket isn’t so much an item of clothing as an extension of your character. More so than any other garment you own, your choice says something about you – so don’t go writing checks your personality can’t cash. There are several main styles to choose from when looking to buy a leather jacket. By far the most famous is the double riders, aka the classic biker jacket made famous by everyone from James Dean to The Ramones. A true staple of rebel attire, several decades worth of under-nourished rockstars have proven just how great it looks with skinny black denim and boots, although it can be fleshed out for bulkier frames when worn over a hoodie, a la Kanye West. For many, the legendary Schott 613 Perfecto is the only name you need to know in this category, although countless others exist at all price points and in all colors.

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Taking the time to select the right skin for your jacket is a decision you will thank yourself for every time you put it on. This crucial choice will dictate everything from looks to comfort, to performance and long-lasting durability, so it’s not something you should take lightly. That said, the tanning of leather is an incredibly complex process and there are many, many factors to take into account. Here’s a short breakdown of a few of them: The first choice is what animal you want your leather to come from. While you might think most leather comes from cows, in actual fact bovine leather (also known as steerhide) is fairly stiff and takes a long time to wear in. As such, it’s often reserved for the more practical end of the market (such as motorcycle protection) along with similar hides like horse or buffalo. A far softer alternative is calfskin, which is pliable and feels like it’s broken-in almost from the first wear, but is less hard-wearing in the long run.

Here’s a quick guide to some of the most common types of leather. And if you’re wondering, technically speaking, there is a simple difference between skins and hides – hides are the pelts of large animals, whereas skins come from small animals. The Convention On International Trade In Endangered Species (CITES) is extremely strict regarding these leathers, so when you buy in the UK from a reputable retailer you can be confident that your purchase will conform to the highest standards. Calfskin: This is a leather from the hide of a calf. Typically, it is less than three years old. Calfskin is particularly soft, with a fine grain, and is very durable.

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